Saturday morning, March 6th

Well, it was an early rise, a quick breakfast of a wonderful fresh fruit smoothie (the kind of fruit that has probably been picked in the last 48 hours - what a treat!!) and on the road @ 7 am. Joining Karen, Bill and myself was Rev. Bene Cumbucane Diraiva whom everyone called Pastor Bene. He is the President of the Zambezia District of the CCM which also puts him into an active role in the national level of the CCM. The best that I can equate his position to is that of the Executive Director at the Conference level of The United Church of Canada, though his ministry is within an ecumenical circle. He is a teacher which offers a means of income for his family since pastors in Mozambique for the most part are not offered monetary remuneration. Much to the surprise of Karen and Bill, it turned out that Pastor Bene spoke English quite well. This also was good news for me for I was certainly hoping that I would have several opportunities for in-depth discussions with him!

The other person on our journey was Jack, our wonderful, careful driver for the duration of my time. When we set out this morning, we did so with about 6 - 50 kg bags of rice, several gas cans since there will be no place to get gas along our journey and sundry other items as well as luggage in the back of the pick-up truck. Some way down the one and only main highway from Quilemane, Jack pulled over to get some bags of charcoal that we will need to provide for those who will be cooking our meals. In this picture, Jack in on the rightin the yellow shirt and Bill is on the left in the blue one. Bill commented to me about his puzzlement on why Jack will drive past countless road side sellers of charcoal and then stop at a particular one as if he instinctively knew this would be the best and/or cheapest charcoal!

Charcoal is the predominate means for cooking in this country which is considered one of the 20 poorest countries in the world with roughly 55% living below the poverty line. Charcoal is almost exclusively the form for cooking in the rural area leading to increases in deforestation, health risks and a draw on valuable time that could be directed to other forms of income generation (according to a research paper on the status of clean cooking fuels by Doctoral candidates: Fabiao Cumbe, Deepak Sharma and Carlos Lucas (linked)).

As we journeyed along this main road, the countryside continually showed evidence of good soil though I was told that over cultivation is common resulting in poorer crop yields. Unlike the area to the south with its serious floods, this part of the country west of Quilemane has been experiencing a serious drought. The rainy season is usually between November and March and would provide the main crop of the year. The rains came in December but lasted only 2 weeks! The fields now show stunted maize (corn) stalks with no evidence of cobs on them. The furrows are hard and cracked as only the cassava grows and other crops wilt. Regions have been so hard hit that emergency food aid is being called for as the already hungry people begin to scavenge for tubers and wild fruit. Thoughts of those smiling faces under such duress begins to effect me.

Every smiling child is a young life so at risk. And there are so many, many young lives - UNICEF reports (2009) that there are 10 million under the age of 18 - almost 1/2 of the entire population! And their current life expectancy is only 37 years, partly because of the high mortality rate for children under 5, the high rate of HIV/AIDS and the striking poverty that hits children first. Add to that the outbreaks of cholera and malaria and then the floods and droughts.

But then, the stories that Bill and Karen are sharing make me realize quickly that high risk is the norm for nearly all the population. HIV/AIDS education starts with the 10 year olds in order to try to reduce the very sad reality of 50% of the young women dying of AIDS before age 30. The rate of infection is slowing nationally but the total numbers of death is still not decreasing in Mozambique. When I pause to reflect on the girls that I have seen along this journey already, I can hardly fathom that half of them will likely die at a very young age!

When one sees the surrounding village life and the challenges it must present to the children, the companionship and mutual support that the PEDRA program fosters becomes an obvious ray of hope for the villagers. So many times families struggle for the money to send their children to school. If they manage to save a little, then boys are the first to receive an education. PEDRA tips the scales a little to allow all these wonderful bright young girls to seek their own future in a country beset by problems yes, but also poised to continue their development as a healthy, free nation with equal opportunity for all.

That reality calls forth such an honouring of the Pedra girls and the strength that I witness - the sheer determination against odds that I know little of back home. To find a way to get to school, to stay in school, to learn about good choices for oneself that differs from the norms of the society around you - to avoid HIV/AIDS, to avoid pregnancy; to dream of becoming a nurse or teacher (and I hope I might have inspired one or so to think about ministry!), to be able to make a difference in your society which itself struggles to mature and develop as an independent nation.

And here they were, the PEDRA girls, waiting for us in the tiny village of Mutaliwa. Waiting to sing greetings, to sing of their faith, to act out a play about first aid. To show with pride their embroidery, their writing. Gathering with older women who teach, encourage and care for them, they themselves full of hope and even more resiliency and determination.

All the singing and laughter brought the attention of other village children who seemed curious.Soon it was time for lunch and the adults appeared to have all under control. I can't imagine cooking for 30 or so over a charcoal fire. Plates of rice and beans were dished up and everyone enjoyed the meal together. After lunch, it was time to carry on up the road towards Namarroi.

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